Premium coax (2-way) designs feature a built-in audiophile crossover which guides the frequencies from the amplifier to each driver (speaker). This system is designed with tight tolerance components for superb sound quality.
Retrofit kit allows addition of rear speakers on your existing factory bag lids. Eliminates need to paint and color match. Integrates into existing HD9813RG-TKIT & HD9813SG-TKIT audio systems. If you need more than just two speakers and want to really feel your music while riding then check out our add-on bag lid audio solution. Centered around our TMS69 6x9" speaker this kit is designed to work with existing OEM bag lids. This means no extra parts to purchase or custom paint schemes to match. Easy to install using our included cutting template and two-piece mounting system you can quickly add on to an existing or new fairing audio kit using with the included plug and play harness. The harness plugs right into either our Power or Punch small chassis 4-channel amplifiers.
6x9 Speaker Cut Out Template
The RZ69H is our favorite speaker to use when top-level performance is needed but complex tuning needs to be avoided. All speakers can benefit from a good EQ but these speakers sound really great right out of the box without having to spend a lot of time tuning. This is because we designed the horn on the is speaker to be level matched with the woofer. Additionally, the horn tweeters on these speakers play higher in frequency than most horns and they do not have the unpleasant ring that bullet-style horns are known for.
We designed the RZ69H speakers to take full advantage of a saddlebag as a speaker enclosure. This results in a sharp hard-hitting mid-bass response that people really like. We also designed the horn tweeter on the RZ69H so that it sounds great off-axis (in the lid pointed up). This way the speaker delivers a big wall of sound that is enjoyable on long rides and has the power to wow a crowd.
Requires assembly. Speaker terminals are standard aftermarket and are not directly plug and play with factory speaker wiring. Made for use with aftermarket amplifiers. A digital sound processor in your system for tuning is always recommended, but these speakers do perform wildly better than all other horn-loaded speakers right out of the box. Even without an equalizer.
These speakers work well with any of the single 8" woofer kits that we sell, but larger and multiple bag woofers are not recommended due to the high levels of air pressure. If you are interested in lid speakers that work especially well with big bag woofer systems, check out our OverDrive version of this kit.
If you need more than just two speakers and want to really feel your music while riding then check out our add-on bag lid audio solution. Centered around our TMS69 6x9" speaker this kit is designed to work with your existing OEM bag lids. This means no extra parts to purchase or custom paint schemes to match. Easy to install using our included cutting template and two-piece mounting system you can quickly add on to an existing or new fairing audio kit using with the included plug and play harness. The harness plugs right into either our Power or Punch small chassis 4-channel amplifiers.
If you need more than just two speakers and want to really feel your music while riding then check out our add-on bag lid audio solution. Centered around our TMS69 6x9" speaker this kit is designed to work with existing OEM bag lids. This means no extra parts to purchase or custom paint schemes to match. Easy to install using our included cutting template and two-piece mounting system you can quickly add on to an existing or new fairing audio kit using with the included plug and play harness. The harness plugs right into either our Power or Punch small chassis 4-channel amplifiers.
Component speaker systems use separate woofers, tweeters, and crossovers to send out detailed, dynamic sound. The crossovers send the low frequencies to the woofers and the highs to the tweeters, freeing up each driver to play with incredible clarity. Component speakers offer the listener greater imaging possibilities than full-range speakers via increased flexibility in placement, aim, and control.
Installing component speakers generally requires more time and effort than coaxial speaker installations. Depending on your vehicle and where you choose to place your components, they may require drilling or cutting. But don't be intimidated. This installation guide can help even first-time installers find their way through the process.
"Modify fit" speakers require a greater degree of cutting and drilling. Before you begin, you must be sure that modifications will not interfere with any car mechanisms, and that the speakers will fit securely. Though you can relocate any speaker, whether it be "easy" or "modify" fit, be aware that the process can be complicated and time-consuming, especially for first-time installers.
Though crossovers usually require little in the way of car adaptation, finding the right place to house them can be tricky. The crossovers need to be kept in a place where they won't interfere with any of the car's moving parts, and where they won't get wet or vibrate. While some people choose to permanently mount them under the seats or on display, it's often just as easy to find a convenient spot for them behind the mounting panel near the speakers. The closer the crossover is to the speakers, the better, as the proximity will cut down on noise. The doors and behind the kick panels serve as two good options for housing crossovers.
If you're powering your new speakers with a factory or aftermarket stereo, the factory speaker wire already installed in your vehicle should work just fine. However, if you plan to install an external amplifier that's rated at 50 watts RMS or more per channel, then we recommend you run new speaker wire. 14- to 16-gauge wire should do the trick when running new speaker wire.
Most car manufacturers build the factory woofers into the door and, often, your new woofer will easily fit into that factory speaker hole. You may still have to dismantle part of your door to install it, however. Here's how:
With a flathead screwdriver, gently pry off the grille of the existing speaker. Car manufacturers usually create a notch in the grille for this very purpose. Grilles secured to the door or attached by friction fittings will require unscrewing or more aggressive prying.
You may need to remove the door panel to access the factory speaker, or to custom install your speakers. In this case, start by removing the window crank (if you have one). A screw at the pivot secures some cranks, but most come anchored by a spring clip. You can use a window-crank removal tool (available from Crutchfield) or a flathead screwdriver to remove this clip. To remove, depress the door panel until you can see behind the crank, turn the lever until you see the prongs of the clip, and gently push the crank off with the screwdriver. The clip will pop off, so be careful.
Carefully lift out the old speaker and detach it from the wiring harness. Some manufacturers use a sealant foam when mounting the original speakers, so you may need to cut through that with a utility knife. Set the factory wiring harness aside. You'll need to wire the woofer to the crossover before routing it to the head unit. See Page 5 for more wiring instructions.
Usually, you'll be able to fit the new speaker into the hole with no difficulty, but sometimes the hole can be too narrow or shallow to accommodate it. In this case, you may have to file or trim part of your door or speaker opening, or anchor your speaker basket to the mounting location.
You should surface-mount your tweeters if you want to minimize labor time and modifications, or if you don't have the depth to flush-mount. Surface-mounting may also offer greater angle range than flush-mounting. With a surface-mount, a cup secured to a surface with a screw holds the tweeter in place. You will need to drill a small hole in the panel to secure the mounting cup and run the speaker leads to the tweeter (see previous page for instructions on removing the door panel).
The crossover should be secure against vibration. Merely placing the crossover in the door or kickpanel leaves it likely to be tossed around. Also, as with the speaker installation, you'll want to make sure the crossover does not interfere with any moving parts. Put the crossovers through the same rigorous tests as you did the speakers, specifically with respect to window and door mobility. 2ff7e9595c
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